Spec Sheet car 1.0
As always my specs are an ongoing process and are more of guidelines. I may add or remove specs along the way.
This specification will be divided into three parts. Part one will be about “pimping” an existing car. Part two about a car I want to build and part three will be specs concerning both cars, mainly media and entertainment.
Part one, modifying an existing car.
The obvious question I can imagine you wondering about is why? Well it’s like this; building/manufacturing a new car is very energy consuming thus polluting more than if you keep driving your existing car for thousands of miles. So an existing car is a good way to start from an environmental perspective. Then theres the issue of size. A small car is often fuel efficient and produces less pollution. A bigger car is often safer. The size of the car is a matter of taste and practical choice. I’m a big guy, I plan on driving rather much, I want to be able to move things, drive my children etc. I want a reasonably big sedan. A high roller in N.Y.C., who lives in the city and only has a mile to get to work, may not need a gigantic SUV. A family with children living in the countryside may have use for one. I’m sure you get the point. What we do instead of argue is taking a look at what can be improved. Higher power, better fuel efficiency etc. Settling for a rather common car is often a better choice since it’s easier to get the right parts at a reasonable price.
1 Tuning.
Chip tuning; heighten the power, commonly 10-20%, and lowering fuel consumption, with up to about 5%. I want to go for a model with external control so that I can set up a couple of mappings for different occasions and fine tune them. For instance: economy, distance, R and “show off”. If possible I want to be able to control it from an onboard car PC.
2 Suspension.
Change suspension and mount strut bracing. If possible also controlled with the onboard car PC. To achieve better comfort as well as control while driving harder.
3 Brakes.
Change the entire brake line. 6 piston calipers and ventilated/slotted MMC (which I, by the way, will write more about later on in a separate blog) rotors all around. Better comfort, safety and better for tougher driving.
4 Bearings.
Ceramic main bearings, anti-friction treated. Like taking the bearings and give them a Teflon bath. Better durability, higher power etc. When the engine is taken apart it’s a good time to change gaskets and check tolerances.
5 Top/Head.
Porting, to heighten efficiency. Make sure the engine is breathing correctly. A good time to check pistons as well. Make sure the valves and valve springs are ok as well as the valve seats. Check the cam shaft. Better response.
6 Turbo/Exhaust.
Control and/or change of the turbo, intake manifold, exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. Air mass meter should be checked as well. Higher power and better fuel efficiency. Better response.
7 Regular checkup.
Wheel bearings, AC etc.
8 Wheels.
Cool tires and rims. Just because it looks so good. Might also improve fuel efficiency as well as comfort and safety.
Building my own car.
This car is meant to be fun, and cool. A cool and fun car which is awesome to drive!
1 Engine.
Engine and drivetrain from a motorcycle. A big V-Twin from approx. 117cui (about 1,9Litres) would do nicely. 100+ HP, there are v-twins available with up to 3.0Litres and 300HP. Anyway this should supply sufficient power and reasonably low fuel consumption.
2 Brakes.
Six piston calipers and ventilated/slotted MMC (Metal Matrix Compound, which I will deal with separately) rotors. Now where talking serious breaking power. Remember with great power you must have great breaks!
3 Wheels.
18” rims, preferably of my own design and making, with 245/35 (metric) low profile tires. This should give great performance, comfort and safety.
4 Suspension.
Now where getting to the good stuff! I’ve been doing some thinking regarding suspension and steering geometry including mechanical under steering compensation etc. When researching the subject it seems this is going to be a world’s first! What I want to achieve is off course comfort and stability but also that the suspension acts mechanically different at higher speeds and harder driving without computers etc. My idea would result in a whole new way of thinking regarding suspension and steering geometry. I’m currently working on the blueprints and with a little luck I will be able to accomplish a full scale test during this summer. The main idea is a derivate from dual A levers and sway-bars on all wheels. Horizontally mounted shocks. Some of the idea is borrowed from drive-by-wire. I will keep you posted in separate documents.
5 Frame and chassis.
Tube frame made of duralumin or chromolly, chassis made of fiberglass. I cannot reveal too much about the design at this stage. I can reveal that the first build will be a model T Ford type. Size will be about the same as a Toyota Yaris or Prius. It will be a two seater.
6 Measurements (preliminary).
Wheelbase about 2,5meters. Length about/under 3,5meters. Width about/under 1,8meters. Height below 1,5 meters. Weight hopefully about 500 kilos but definitely under 750kg.
Common specs.
Audio and video. 2DIN media center with high resolution touchscreen, navigation and VGA connection. Rearview camera. Car PC. Portable 2,5” hard drive for both media center and PC, for streaming media etc. Audio front: 2 x 2pcs 6,5” woofers/midranges and 2 x 2 tweeters. 2 x 200W minimum. Audio rear (modified car/sedan): 2 x 2pcs 6,5” woofers/midranges and 2 x 2 tweeters. 2 x 200W minimum. Separate audio/video zones, 7” high resolution touchscreens and wireless headphones for passengers. Audio rear (car to be built): Dual 8” woofers, dual 4” midranges and dual 1” tweeters. 2 x 200W minimum. Subwoofer dual 10”, 2 x 500W minimum. Separate processor for crossover, Eq, phase and delay etc. Maybe the whole system should have active crossovers and separate power amps? All tweeters in a special Omni sphere mounting of my own design. Audio should be of competition grade
(Hi-Fi) and be able to play as LOUD as wanted! Both the media center and the onboard car PC should be accessible from the rear seat. Things I still think about: Internet? Car alarm integration? Web cams?
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